Da Capo vineyards have launched a six-pack of unusual Italian and French varieties under the new Idiom label. Graham Howe reports on the beginnings of the Bottega’s bodega on Sir Lowry’s Pass.
Idiom, noun: A mode of expression peculiar to a language; an expression characteristic of particular language not logically or grammatically explicable.
Question: What do you get when you blend two northern Italians like Alberto Bottega and Giorgio Dalla Cia with an all-South African A-team of Archer, Saayman and Engelbrecht? Answer: A tutti-frutti range of expressive Cape wines in a new Idiom, with a few exotic Italian varieties in the mix like Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Primitivo (aka Zinfandel) as well as Mourvedre, Viognier and a little Pinotage on the side.
Idiom is a passionate Italian affair. Alberto Bottega says there?s been no looking back since he acquired the 65 hectare farm above Somerset West on impulse at an auction ? and planted the first vineyards in 1999. The high financier retired from the fast-lane in Gauteng to take up wine farming in the Cape ? at Da Capo Vineyards and at Whalehaven, the winery in his new portfolio. His daughter Silvana designed the stunning label, his son Roberto helps with the marketing ? and the whole family joins in blind tastings of the barrel selections for the acclaimed Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc) and Rhone (Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier) blends.
Over lunch at Ellerman House, Bottega explained the inspiration for the naming of Idiom and Da Capo Vineyards. Idiom, meaning a unique linguistic expression, is a metaphor for the expression of terroir in wine. Da Capo means ‘from the beginning’ as well as ‘from the Cape’. Bottega recalls attending a concert by the Three Tenors in Rome. When Luciano Pavarotti asked which song they should perform as an encore, the President of Italy replied, ‘Da Capo’, meaning from the beginning! ‘When you finish a bottle of wine, you should also start from the beginning’, chuckles Bottega.
The choice of cultivars pays tribute to his dual Italian and Cape heritage - ‘the special place’ where his family settled in 1950. He also planted more unusual varieties in order to nurture a separate identity for Idiom to the signature wines of Whalehaven ? cool-climate Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. The results are impressive - Idiom won Veritas double gold with the SMV 2004 blend, Best Viognier on Fairbairn 2005 (bronze) and four stars in Platter?s SA Wines 2006 for the Bordeaux 2004 blend.
Cooled by maritime breezes from False Bay, the high-lying vineyards (200 ? 350m above sea-level) of Da Capo were planted with clones and varieties meticulously matched to the granite/sandstone soils to develop the terroir concept of Idiom wines. Bottega likes to monitor the evolution of flavours in every barrel to pick up the diversity of clones and blocks ? and identifies signature qualities like rosemary (Zinfandel), cinnamon/cloves (Sangiovese) and pears (Viognier). Son Roberto says the cellar smells like a perfume factory when the early variety Viognier comes in.
A novel set of swatch-sticks aid public tastings of the lesser known varieties at the Whalehaven cellar. These vertical ‘expression cards’ explore the colour, aromas and flavours of the nine varieties which go into the Idiom wines. Nebbiolo, the sixth wine to join the range in 2006, runs the spectrum from flowers, minerals, cedar and spices to mushrooms, tobacco, raspberries and cherries. ‘The Sangiovese is a little bit of Tuscany’ adds Bottega of a spicy wine reminiscent of cherries, prunes and dates.
Winemaker Paul Engelbrecht separately vinifies and matures different clones from small blocks in Whalehaven?s boutique cellar. He says he takes great care to preserve the aromatics of the grapes through judicious use of French, American and Hungarian oak. He adds, ‘We have to be very careful not to make another Chardonnay from Viognier. It is very versatile ? it makes a full-bodied or a light-bodied wine, a fruity blend, goes with Shiraz … On its own, it shows an evolution of flavours from the barrel to the glass.’ He is unconcerned by the high alcohol levels of the 2004 reds (14,7 ? 15,2%), and says its inevitable when picking at full physiological ripeness.
Engelbrecht worked with Zinfandel in his former post at Blaauwklippen. He says DNA tests trace the tricky grape with the thin skin that can go mushy during harvest to the native Primitivo of Puglia. In an essay on the introduction of Italian varieties into New Zealand, Michael Cooper writes, ‘Will they stay novelties? Italian varieties may add a welcome diversity ? and an exciting new range of flavours.’ Viticulturalists Smart and Gwalter add, ‘On the basis of similarity of climate, there are good opportunities for growing many Italian varieties in Australia.’ A tasting of Idiom wines suggests the same may be true of Italiano vino from Da Capo.
Written by Graham Howe
Tuesday, November 29, 2005
http://www.wine.co.za/News/news.aspx?NEWSID=7700
